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Bridle Adjustment
Just hoping for some feedback on bridle adjustment. Does anybody leave it set and tie off through the gunnel or are all adjustable?
Ryan Donaldson1-May-2011    Edit    Delete 
Re: Bridle Adjustment
Hi Ryan
I set mine according to the rake we are using for the day (Not too high or too low). I find I have my hands full adjusting other things during a race but I know some boats do have systems that allow adjustment while sailing. How often its used would be interesting...

Andrew1-May-2011    Edit    Delete 
Re: Bridle Adjustment
i adjusted it a lot
nick major4-May-2011    Edit    Delete 
Re: Bridle Adjustment
I have one on my boat but find it very hard to adjust and Know what to do with it as well.
Can anyone tell how to use Correctly or should i just take it off ?
Alex Thomson (Atom-ic 3143)4-May-2011    Edit    Delete 
Re: Bridle Adjustment
Hi Prof
I imagine (and I am hoping Nick will confirm or clarify this) that it is adjusted to vary leech tension while still carrying the boom along the centreline. This would enable you to increase or reduce leech tension without touching vang (which then starts to bend lower mast). Similar to what you get if you use a Traveller I suppose.
When it's blowing 18 knots you have the boom off centre a fair bit and moving all the time so you use vang sheeting in this case.
Unless you know how to use it (and have the conditions & bh skills) I would remove or set for the day.

Andrew6-May-2011    Edit    Delete 
Re: Bridle Adjustment
Easy..the kiss rule here...as 125's are a entry class there are more things that will make you boat go fast over a race distance then a adjustable bridle. KISS
The Don17-May-2011    Edit    Delete 
Re: Bridle Adjustment
Alex, I would adjust it in the following way:
Starting in light winds, have it all the way loose/ maximum height.
As the wind increases and you wish to increase leech tension/increase mainsheet tension: as you run out of mainsheet and think about starting to use vang, shorten or lower the bridle so you can use mainsheet rather than vang. You could snug down the vang as well each time you re-adjust so that if you need to ease mainsheet for a gust the boom would not rise so much.
Then keep following the same procedure as the wind stregth increases until you reach a point where you have minimum bridle but also have to ease mainsheet. then you're going to have to use the vang.

Not having used a bridle on the 125, I am not an expert in this particuar case, but the principle applies to most boats with bridles.
A better solution than the 2:1 ( or more) mainsheets on bridles that I see, is to have a 1:1 mainsheet that splits into two smaller parts just before where it would reach the end of the boom and the boom-end block. These two parts become the bridle.
What happens then is that, if you want to pull more mainsheet ( down pressure on the leech) you don't have to adjust the bridle, you just pull the bridle IN to the mainsheet block. If you can imagine it, this actually shortens the height of the bridle. No adjustment needed.
If you think that the tension will be too much to hadle 1:1, i used this method on a Flying15, no problem hanging on to the mainsheet, plus less mainsheet to pull in!
IF I used a bridle I would use this system (less to adjust and achieves the same emds as manual bridle adjustment), but I prefer the traveller for it's superior mainsail control.

Jamie
Jamie Thomson28-Jun-2011    Edit    Delete 

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